Showing posts with label Annapolis Royal. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Annapolis Royal. Show all posts

Monday, October 3, 2011

Historic Annapolis Royal

Annapolis Royal holds the title of The Most Livable Small Community in the world. It's certainly small, only 444 people, and those we have seen are very friendly, interested in their gardens and their history. There's lots of history, having been settled since 1605 and changed hands between the French and the British 7 times. The Acadians were French in origin, only wanting to drain the land and farm - and were on good terms with the local Indians, the Mic Macs.

We started the day with a walk along the main street to two private gardens and learned that the local white-tailed deer make gardening difficult with their love of delicacies like hostas and rosebuds.

The Heritage Garden (Stop and Smell the Roses) has had to fence the deer out and the result is an exquisite 30 acres divided into different areas: the rose garden has 237 varieties though mostly over, an Acadian cottage with thatched roof and garden, a drained marshland surrounded by a dyke, a pine garden where David hovered, a knot garden and a magnificent red garden.

The horticulturalist, Trish, is a dedicated manager always searching for funds as Government support is no longer there. She made an interesting guide as people of passion always do.

Morning tea was next door in the German Bakery with another interesting woman, Heidi, an immigrant master baker from East Germany, who proudly told us she chose her husband Dietrich from a newspaper advert. He is a baker also and gave us a demonstration of making strudel which we ate with gusto. Lunch later was delicious.


Durline rejoined us for a drive around Annapolis Royal, then across the river and down to The Habitation which is a re-creation of how the French men and boys lived in beaver-trapping days - beautifully done and seeming lived-in with people there carrying out old-time jobs like turning wood. Durline is a real character and had us all lined up for a group photo against the silvery grey background of the wooden buildings - it was like herding cats but you do what Durline tells you. She tells the story amidst great gusts of laughter how she first saw her husband Alan when she was leading a tour to this place and he was the guide. She fell instantly in love and 30 minutes later asked him if he would consider marrying a girl from Texas - 9 months later they were married and 19 years on here she is a powerful force in the community.

We met him, dressed in the uniform of a British Army officer, at Fort Anne where he took us on a tour of the graveyard and showed us a stunning tapestry of the local history worked by local volunteers with 3.2 million stitches - even Queen Elizabeth did a bit when she was visiting. Alan is a fine figure of a man with a dynamic presence and you can see how romance blossomed. He is a designated Canadian Living Treasure, of which Durline is very proud.

Durline arranged a concert for us in the church hall after dinner with a talk by Judy, a charming First Nation lady who excelled herself by getting David up to dance with her. He shook off his jet lag and finally relaxed enough to smile - I have it on video and will be happy to show it when we get home (unless otherwise bribed ...)

There was a lovely fiddle player and Durline's dancers showed us the Scotia Shuffle , sort of a barn dance. Everyone was so friendly and pleased to meet this bus load of Australians: I think they really appreciate that we are here for 3 nights, especially as the US tourists have decreased with the economic downturn.


Sunday, October 2, 2011

Catching Up With the Group

The weather forecast for Halifax was cloudy and 17' which actually meant thick fog one foot above the ground - as we saw when the plane made an instrument landing. The bus picked us up and took us to join the group who were visiting a garden and I wasn't one bit sorry to have missed it as they and their umbrellas dripped onto the bus and gave us cold wet handshakes.

It was great to see Anne, Bill and Sue again from the trip we did in France, and of course Merryle who does such a wonderful job of organizing and researching. As we drive along she tells us the history of what we are seeing and her enthusiasm spills over to us the captive audience.

Lunch was at Grand Pre (don't know how to do accents on the phone so you'll just have to imagine it) which is a top restaurant attached to a winery which specializes in ice wine. Big story about how the grapes freeze on the vine and are picked frozen at night thus contributing to the intense flavor. (American spelling forced on me by iPhone - but never mind I love it!) Bill and David are not convinced and think it's due to botrytis : I can see they're going to be the bad boys on the bus.

Lunch is typically Canadian - either fish stew or smoked and cured beef brisket which is like corned beef, followed by tiny blueberries shortcake and ice wine. Now we're off to Annapolis Royal for three nights and can UNPACK.

We drove down the Annapolis Valley which is ridged on either side by low mountain ranges which protect it from the howling north winds: combined with fertile soils it makes a micro-climate perfect for fruit and vegetable growing so it's known as the bread basket of Nova Scotia. The apple orchards are loaded and we all want to stop the bus and pinch some. Signs in a village announce early season Honeycrisps which sound nice. Maybe tomorrow...

Half an hour for settling in and then we get to meet Durline, our local tour guide, who is a Texan married to a native Acadian (ten generations of his family have lived here). Wow! She is full on and totally committed to portraying the history of Annapolis. Here she is dressed as a 1600s Acadian woman complete with wooden sabots which look awfully like Crocs with curly toes.

We had a tour of heritage trees in the village and the bus got stuck in the Historical Garden: for a while there I thought we would demolish a 200 year old linden tree but I think Durline made it move over.

Halloween is month away and many houses are decorated for it: I like the one on this page.